Christmas in August?!
Thursday, August 9th, 2007Hey, sorry I didn’t write lately … the reason? -No time! We are so busy making chocolates. Believe it or not, but yesterday was the hottest day here out in Manassas (103F) and we were enrobing chocolates for 6 hours and finishing Pate de Fruit for another six. The air conditioning had a workout and so did we
It is good to get in the groove again though, slowly the summer progresses and we are getting ready to prepare ourselves for the big season. Due to some exciting (and unforeseen) orders we did work until midnight in the past few days and next week is even more crowded with tasting appointments and more. More on that later in this post. Look at this:
Doesn’t this look good? It is a close shot of our ginger confections after cutting the ganache. Tomorrow we will enrobe the chocolates - I just had to grab the camera to take a picture and capture this. The pieces inside are candied ginger that we add to the ganache. The actual flavor does not come from the candied ginger though (those just give a little crunch and texture to the whole experience), but rather from the ginger root that we cut up and steeped in the cream before we make the ganache. The ginger praline is one of our summer flavors and while it tastes really good and refreshing, it will disappear from the menu in a few weeks to make space for some delicious winterly and Christmas-y flavors.

So, while I was looking for some older confectionery tools on ebay in Germany, I came across something that I thought I would never get my hands on: A set of tools to decorate and form confections like marzipan and nougats. Of course you can get that anywhere you say (and I also have a few versions out of plastic already) but this one is different. It is dated late 18th century and hand-carved from horn (rhino or similar). Tools like that where used back then, when there was no plastic to form - my first chef Josef Buecker (Vice-President of the Pastry Guild, Germany) told me about a tool-set like that and how good it was to work with the marzipan, because the tools would never stick to it and have no seam.

Since that night (2nd year of apprenticeship, it was about 10:30PM and we were modeling marzipan figurines) I always wanted to have tools like these. Since decades it is prohibited to make things like that out of horn and I never thought I would be so lucky to get them. But now I have my very own set of tools and they are in surprisingly good shape. They are very detailed and also very light in your hand - lighter than the plastic ones even. I will model some marzipan with it - just to try them out and to get the feel for them and I will probably be ending up putting them into a frame or sth… I am glad I found this piece of pastry and confectionery history
Out of our last newsletter, coming up in exactly one week is this:
Start your weekend off early with a complimentary chocolate and wine tasting at Cork and Fork in Gainesville, VA on Thursday, August 16th from 6-9pm. In addition, the Virginia Gateway community will be celebrating a “Midsummer’s Night of Music†with performances by New Day Rising and The Josh Burgess Band.
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The dark chocolate in the background was the Creme Brulee (?) one. It had a suttle caramel flavor to it (could have been more burned) and tasted very rich, buttery and a little sweet. Vanilla bean visible in there too and the dark chocolate on the outside was delicious. The milk chocolate enrobed chocolate was marzipan, orange flavored with a caramel layer inside. The marzipan was pretty dry and flavored with orange liquor (grand marnier?), the caramel layer was more caramel-ly than in the creme brulee one, too bad the marzipan was so dry though …
That one was our favorite - by far - of this selection. Very intense Armagnac flavor with dried plums - what a combination! We will attempt to make a chocolate confection with these very ingredients later this year - I will get dried plums this week and put ‘em in some Armagnac jars …. The one big difference of ours will be, that we will not use a mold like Cluizel, but rather hand-cut this confection as well. It will be challenging to get this intense flavor in the ganache, because I can not make it too liquid. I am sure we’ll manage to perfect it though
A light lemon ganach, just flavored with lemon zest, reminded us on a lemon-pepper we made once. The ganache was slightly whipped maybe? A gentle chocolate, nice for the summer, although some people might like it more refreshing …
A cork of a wine bottle - no wait, you can actually eat it
Pistachio marzipan is a little dry and the pstachio flvor is not very strong - but you can definetly tell what it is.
Coffee Gianduja comes to mind - that’s pretty much all there is to say. Very strong and bold coffee flavor - very similar to our “Espresso, instead of hazelnut paste (like ours) it probably has Hazelnut Gianduja in it. Yummy
Too bad I don’t know the name of it anymore, but this was delicious as well! Milk chocolate on the outside (some hazelnut crunchies mixed in), then a layer of marzipan and a very soft ganache center with Rum. Fantastic combination of textures and flavors, classic but oh so good. On the image you see the last bite, it probably was 2-3 inches long. The ganache on the inside must have been chilled and then rolled into the marzipan - we actually did a “Bouche” like this at

We had some chocolate craving yesterday afternoon and decided to check out some of the chocolate confections we brought back from our NY trip earlier this week. The four pralines from La Maison du Chocolat look a little beaten up, but this is just because of the warm weather and not perfect transportation from NY to DC …. when we were entering the store on Madison Avenue in New York, all chocolates in the showcase looked absolutely flawless. I am not going over the top here - I inspected the pralines very closely and really - they almost look like molded pieces or made out of plastic. Here and there you could see an uneven edge, but the coating was very shiny and flawless. I think they get a special mix of couverture from Valrhona and I would love to know the cocoa butter content on that ….. uh well.
This one has a very hot taste that gets you in the end, although we did not get any description with them, this one must be a chili/pink peppercorn …
a flavor that is hard to distinguish, although it tastes very good. It must be some kind of liquor, a sweet but not too fruity direction.
Hazelnut milk chocolate. We were a little disappointed, it almost tastes like just milk chocolate in a cup with a roasted hazelnut in the center.
Cinnamon … tastes very much like more christmas-y spices too … like clove, vanilla - fantastic flavors, smooth center, great chocolate … although I would not consider it a flavor for the warmer seasons.
Jasmine Tea …. I love Jasmine Tea and in long-term we will probably have a year-round flavor of this one too. I might enrobe it with a milk chocolate though. This one was very sweet and had a very strong flavor to it - the latter i like, the sweetness I would try to reduce.
Earl Grey Tea. Much sweeter than ours and no bitterness at all. They must not bring the cream to a boil with the leaves, but take them ou beforehand. Although this is an interesting technique, I kind of like the bitter taste that you get with Tea - just like when you make yourself a cup of it.
This must have been a wine that they used with it. It almost tastes mint-y and it would have been great to have had the actual wine with it.